Tuesday, March 1, 2011

Cachai?

It's another absolutely beautiful day in Santiago. I’m up early again because of the traffic on the street outside our hostal window, but waking up to sunlight and a cool breeze drifting in, knowing it will be 86 by mid afternoon makes it easier to hop out of bed and grab the day. Early morning seems like an appropriate moment to reflect and share some of Santiago before I move to the coast tomorrow.

Because its been almost a week now, and because I don’t want to recount some sort of chronological description of the past six days, I'm just going to present some moments of Santiago as they come to mind.

When in Santiago...
    Walk. It feels good to explore the city in the sunshine. I’ve found I can see more of what this place has to offer if I do it by foot, and eventually I’ll get where I’m going. There are little boutiques and cafés and markets to peek into. It’s smoggy, but it’s a neat city just the same...on that note, don’t expect clear boogers because they’ll be black. That makes it sound like its nasty here, but Santiago has remarkably clean streets and parks for a city this size, the surrounding mountains just trap the smog in, so the air isn’t the cleanest. From ground level though, all is sharp and clear.







    Hike. Get up to the top of San Cristobal. I’ve run it once and hiked it once, and while it wasn’t an easy stroll, it was well worth the sweat both times. It’s the only way to give yourself enough perspective to realize how flat and expansive Santiago is, and to see all of the surrounding mountains. At the top is the giant statue of La Virgen, who looks out over the city. She's the guardian figure of Santiago. People hike San Cristobal to visit her, leaving candles and plaques to express their appreciation for what she has done for them. The variety of people is awesome...mom's carrying babies in their arms, elderly couples, three-year old troopers, wearing everything from church dresses and shoes, to speedo swimsuit bottoms. We here that some people make the hike every Sunday.

    Eat. The food is excellent so far. I have yet to eat a meal I did not thoroughly enjoy. I feel like all things I find delicious are put together into creative combinations that I haven’t thought of before. The creation to the right is a completo. Chile is known for them. Might look mostly like your average hot dog from this view, but it is so much more. It is a hot dog, bun packed with sauerkraut and a chunky carrot and tomato salsa, then smothered in avocado, then topped with tomatoes, mustard, and ají chileno (hot sauce). There are also about 12 different varieties of completos all with different combos. Below is mechada, a slow cooked beef and chilean mashed potatoes which are cheesy and spicey...The savory food here has been more satisfying to me than the dessert, but the ice cream flavors are like none I have seen before...favorite so far coco nut and pasión del caribe...thai pineapple was also pretty awesome.





Drink. Fresh fruit juice, so refreshing...I choose raspberry or a tart, tasty green fruit called chirimoya. Pisco...Chile’s own distilled grape liquor served as Pisco sour, Piscola, Piscoblanco, and the list goes on. It would not surprise me if some people drink Pisco with breakfast. Realize that when served a drink you will recieve a glass at least three-quarters liquor, one quarter soda or juice. Expect coffee or tea, because coffee breaks are culture. We have at least 2 coffee breaks with little sandwiches or cookies each time we go to our office for a meeting.

    Be chill. Things are very relaxed here. It is not uncommon to wait for thirty or fourty minutes for someone to meet up with you. If told to arrive at 9, its alright and expected to arrive at 9 20 or 9 30. If someone is an hour late, try not to get too grumpy about it. Don’t wait to go to dinner until my stomach is grumbling because I know will wait at least an hour for food to be served, we have even wait that long to be asked our order. But its always worth the wait, and allows for more conversation, more relaxation.

    Chat with Chileans. Their Spanish is unique and will take some getting used to, but it reflects their free lifestyle. They speak quickly and loosely. Consonants, especially ‘s’ are never necessary, and vowels kind of slur into one, so things sound like a mumble and it takes a minute to process before responding to what you think they’ve said. Also, their language is full of all sorts of their own words. I’m learning all sorts of new vocabulary. Cachai?---you know? Te cacho.---Got it/I understand. Huevon---dude, but also idiot within a different context. Altiro---right now. Carretera---party, but can also mean just hanging with friends, or also going out on the town...can be used as a verb as well, quereís carretear? o estamos carreteano. Pololo---boyfriend or girlfriend, novio as we know it implies engaged. Po---used all the time, but has no meaning. Chileans also indicate location with a kissy face in the intended direction. If you ask where the supermercado is, they will appear to kiss to the right or left, or up the hill towards it.
  
Wear a fanny pack, but wear it across the chest rather than fanny. I bought mine yesterday. It is funky and fun, but ideal when all you need for the day is the essentials. Its also great for areas where you want your things as close and in sight as possible, like on the metro at rush hour, or walking through a busy weekend afternoon market. I am convinced there is a fanny pack perfect for everyone to be discovered among the markets and boutiques of this city.
  

Love dogs. Strays are everywhere, but they are tail wagging friendly and always game to accompany you on a walk. We have already made many dog friends. And they are all gorgeous and handsome because they are all mutts full of character. I’m going to want to bring one back to the states with me, but its obvious they are more than content roaming the streets, and they’ve got some pretty neat streets to roam.



Now to seize the Santiago sunshine, and wander its streets for my last day before the coast.

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